Civita di Bagnoregio: A Charming Day Trip

Imagine stepping into a charming Italian village just a short trip from Rome or the port of Civitavecchia. Let us take you to Civita di Bagnoregio.

While planning our Norwegian Epic cruise with a stop in Civitavecchia, we stumbled upon a photograph of a hilltop European town with a bridge straight out of a storybook. This picturesque place was Civita di Bagnoregio, just an hour and a half drive from Civitavecchia. Instantly, my heart was set on visiting.

Located in central Italy’s Lazio region, bordering Umbria, Civita di Bagnoregio is about two hours from Rome or an hour and fifteen minutes from the Civitavecchia cruise port. This post will guide you through what to do in Civita di Bagnoregio and how to get there from Rome and Civitavecchia.

What to See and Do in Civita Di Bagnoregio

The unique village of Civita di Bagnoregio sits atop a hill, looking like something straight out of a storybook. As you enter its neighboring town of Bagnoregio, you’ll be greeted with a breathtaking view of this hilltop town. Seeing it in person is quite an experience. Photos don’t do it justice—it almost looks like a painting.

The only access to the village is via a pedestrian bridge, as no vehicles are allowed. This means there’s virtually no noise pollution once you’re there, and the peace are incredibly refreshing.

Civita di Bagnoregio is unlike any other Italian town I’ve visited. While the locals work hard to restore it, the village retains a timeless quality.

Here are some fun facts about Civita di Bagnoregio:

• It was founded 2,500 years ago by the Etruscans.
• The bridge was rebuilt in 1965; the original was destroyed during World War II.
• It’s labeled a “dying city” due to having fewer than a dozen residents and the eroded hilltop that will eventually crumble.
• Also known as the “city in the sky” due to its perch atop a volcanic plateau surrounded by ravines.

Walk the Pedestrian Bridge

To explore Civita di Bagnoregio, you must pay a small entry fee and walk the pedestrian bridge. The entrance fee is 5€ per person, and it helps keep track of tourist numbers while funding the village’s renovations.

The pedestrian bridge is about 1,000 feet long. While it may look like a long and exhausting walk, it wasn’t too bad, even for someone who rarely works out. Take your time, enjoy the stunning views of Calanchi Valley; before you know it, you’ll be at the entrance.

Remember that getting around might be challenging if you have mobility issues.

Don’t just snap a picture from afar without giving it a chance. Why make the effort to go there and not explore it?

Tour Idea:
Civita di Bagnoregio 1.5-Hour Guided Walking Tour [book here]

Take in the Beauty of Calanchi Valley

The Calanchi Valley is a picturesque sight. The steep, sloping hills are covered in a thick layer of white marble dust, creating the illusion of a snow-covered landscape. The contrast of the green trees and blue sky against the white terrain is stunning.

The breathtaking views of Calanchi Valley will captivate you. As you slowly make your way, taking pictures, you’ll find yourself at the entrance of the hilltop village before you know it.

Remember to wear comfortable shoes.

Enter via Porta Santa Maria

Porta Santa Maria is the gateway to Civita di Bagnoregio. This beautiful, old stone gateway has been standing for centuries, welcoming visitors to the village. The archway is flanked by ancient carvings and stone lions, symbols of the town’s historical significance and resilience.

Originally built in the Etruscan period, the gate has seen several renovations over the years, preserving its historical charm. Walking through Porta Santa Maria feels like stepping back in time, entering a world where history and beauty come together seamlessly.

Sit and Enjoy the Main Square of Civita di Bagnoregio

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As soon as you pass through Porta Santa Maria, you’ll find yourself in the main square of Civita di Bagnoregio. This beautiful, quiet square is surrounded by old stone buildings and features a charming church. A few small cafes and restaurants make it the perfect place to relax and soak in the village’s atmosphere.

We found seats at Bar La Piazzetta and ordered an espresso and cookies. It was still early in the day and not crowded, possibly because it was a weekday in the fall. Sitting outside one of the cafes, we took in all the details and charm of the square.

After our espresso, we explored the village, discovering its many picturesque spots. Captivated by Civita di Bagnoregio’s unique character, we took photos and videos of everything.

As the day goes on, more people start arriving. I read that Rick Steves brings busloads of his tour groups during the summer, so keep that in mind. Getting there early is the key to enjoying the village at its most calm.

Visit San Donato Church

San Donato Church is a beautiful, old stone church located in the main square of Civita di Bagnoregio. Surrounded by old stone buildings, it features a small courtyard in front. The original structure dates back to the 7th century, while the facade was rebuilt in the 1500s, adding to its historical charm.

Tour an Etruscan Cave

You might come across a tour of the Etruscan caves during your exploration.

At the time, we paid 2€ and toured an Etruscan cave where the Italian movie Pinocchio was filmed. The cave was filled with props from the film, but the old artifacts, including ancient weapons and tools, fascinated me more. The underground area featured an ancient wine press and bedroom quarters, adding a layer of historical intrigue to the visit.

Walk Around and Explore

There are plenty of charming spots to discover in Civita di Bagnoregio. Be sure to wander the cobblestone streets, explore the nooks and corners, and follow the walkways to the end for views of the canyons.

You’ll come across idyllic gardens, quaint homes, and old stone buildings that add to the village’s unique charm.

Have Lunch (or Dinner) at Alma Civita Ristorante

Enjoy a meal at one of the charming restaurants to complete a beautiful day in Civita di Bagnoregio. Some may be closed due to the season or time of day, but you’ll find some delicious options.

We hadn’t researched restaurants in advance, and while reservations are recommended, they may be more crucial during peak seasons. We stumbled upon Alma Civita Ristorante, where patrons were enjoying beautiful dishes outside. Fortunately, they had a table available.

Our meal at Alma Civita was one of the highlights of our two-week trip through Italy, Spain, and France. We still talk about their freshly baked focaccia bread with black salt, mouthwatering stacked eggplant parmesan, and Cacio e Pepe made with scratch pasta. The mushroom puff pastry appetizer was amazing, and the house meatballs were another winning dish.

For dessert, we received a sampler medley of normal-sized pieces. We couldn’t finish them all, but our favorite was the tiramisu – get it if it’s on the menu.

The service at Alma Civita was excellent. The restaurant is run by a kind and attentive family. We enjoyed sitting outside, but they also have a beautiful indoor space. If you plan to have lunch there, visit their website for more information, as they open at selected times during the year.

How to Get to Civita di Bagnoregio

From the Port of Civitavecchia

There are no direct trains from the port of Civitavecchia to Civita di Bagnoregio. You must be willing to drive, book a private car, or take a tour.

From Rome

Civita di Bagnoregio is a great day trip from Rome. It is about a two-hour drive through the Italian countryside.

Parking at Civita di Bagnoregio

Paid Parking: There is a parking lot near the entrance to the pedestrian bridge. Have some Euro coins on hand for parking. If you don’t have change, there’s a coffee bar in the courtyard where you can purchase something small to get change.

Free Parking: It is said you can park for free under the bridge, but we followed the signs for the paid parking lot.

Civita di Bagnoregio is a lovely day trip and embodies what many of us envision when visiting Italy. It offers an escape from the chaos of long touristy lines and stuffy museums, providing an opportunity for a road trip or a memorable stop on your Italian adventure.

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